Surprise Upgrade!

Jordan and I were VERY happy that we got bulkhead seats thanks to my status on American. That's why when we approached the jet bridge to the aircraft, and Jordan's ticket gave a "rejected" WONNNNK we were up in arms, ready to fight the gate agent in fear that we had lost our coveted bulkhead seats.

Much to our surprise and elation, it wasn't a loss of bulkhead, it was upgrade to premium economy!! This comes with welcome drinks, real silverware, extra 5-6" of legroom, nice headphones, extra width seats, and the special feeling of privilege. 

Jordan and I are very happy. I attribute it to my gold status on American, and that a family might have needed our bulkhead seats with the bassinet. Either way, this is fantastic. 

Champagne upon boarding 

2/4/2 configuration 

Happy Jordan 

Extra plugs and legroom. 

Welcome pack 

Happy couple!

Now Presenting...

The winner for best ridiculous sign in all of Asia, courtesy of one Mr. Jordan L.

This one is for you, Dad.

For the three of you reading this, we are in HKG in a SUPER PREMIUM EXECUTIVE LUXURY DELUXE lounge awaiting our much delayed flight. Hopefully our new flying time of 19:20 sticks!

Around Bangkok

Bangkok is huge. Like, massive and sprawling. I frequently wonder how they decided on the paths for their new metro and sky train system, because there is no CBD (central business district) that I can make out. As a result, the new mass transit concessions weave in and out of the touristy and semi-businessy parts of town in a seemingly aimless way. This is a testimate to how much there is to do in this city, and, to quote my dear, dear friend Abbey, how much schlepping you have to do to get around.

Despite a uniformity of general look and feel, Bangkok has many faces. We saw many of them on this trip. 

The view from the 20th floor of our hotel shows the tollway below, wats (temples) all over, and sporadic skyscrapers as far as you can see. Not conventionally pretty, Bangkok certainly has a sense of beauty in its chaos. 

Here is Chinatown. I mean, Chinatowns are always pretty much the same, and Bangkok really isn't much of an exception. Bangkok's history, though, is intertwined with that of China's. From a very early year, Chinese merchants owned and operated the banks of the river here, and the Chinese integrated with the Thai people, creating (we think) the distinct Thai look that makes these people among the prettiest people on earth. 

You can see in the photo above that Bangkok has no lack of taxis. We generally taxid around when the BTS (sky train) did not go where we needed it to, which was frequently. We also took tuk tuks, which are for tourists for sure, but are very fun. And, of course, we took a boat, which I must do in any city I'm holidaying in. (Much to Jordan's chagrin)

This time we got a canal tour on a long boat. I loved it. we got to see the main river and the back canals that used to make up Bangkok's primary transport means (many of them are now filled in and replaced with roads, probably for the better!). 

Obligatory selfies. 

The canals are actually a really cool glimpse into what Bangkok must have looked like long ago when it was all canals. The canal houses are right on the water, each with a dock for accessibility and a covered porch for relaxation and eating of course. Some of these houses are nice, some are not, and some are falling into the canal. Literally.

This is a nicer one. 

This is a typical canal. 

Coming out of the canal. 

The main river. 

Another popular form of transport here is the motorcycle taxi. When I tell you I have 

Seen entire families on these things, I mean it - 3-4 people can fit on a motorcycle when the situation demands it. Ever since our rented motorbike in koh Tao last year, we have felt confident enough in our ability to hold on to actually take these taxis. So after our boat ride, we bit the bullet. 

Of course, I can't do anything new and touristy in a foreign place without my camera out and embarrassingly taking photos. This was no exception, despite the treacherous travel method. I even took a video. 

http://youtu.be/-O_rteMT-gs

Mom, you might not want to watch that one. 

After a long day of trekking/schlepping/boating we needed a massage. Everyone here gets massages. I think the common western view of massage is that it's relaxing and soothing and feels nice. Not Thai massage. It hurts. You come out a battered, bruised soldier (just ask my brother about his experience last year), but you feel good when it's over.  We spent $13 on a two hour massage, and it was great. My favorite part is the silly pajamas they make you wear. 

After massages, it was time to eat again and go to the gay Soi. Sardines and fermented fish paste. Not my favorite but good. 

You never know what can happen on the sois of silom. This late evening, a troupe graced us with some breakdancing. We actually gave them some money. 

Following the breakdancing show, a child drove his power wheels up the street. 

Just another day in Bangkok. 

Bangkok Food

The food is what really sets this place apart from other southeast Asian cities. And let's be real, eating is our favorite thing to do. Our week in Bangkok was not spent hunting down temples or visiting palaces (although we have done that in the past), instead, we spent it in search of the best meals we could find. We sampled many restaurants and dishes. 

This dish is from a restaurant called Krua Apsporn, which is commonly quoted as one of the best restaurants in the world, although you would never know it by the drabby cafeteria style dining room and unsuspecting storefront. To top that off, taxis and our hotel concierge had never heard of the place. Krua is know for their Thai curries and fresh and well spiced seafood. We sampled everything but the curry for some reason. This dish below was basically Thai fajitas with leaves, peanuts, lime, dried shrimp, sauce, onions, and some other things I could not really identify. Delish! Other standouts were the crab omelette and the spicy mussels. 

Not far from Krua Apsorn is Jays, which has probably my favorite noodle dish in the world - and that is no small accolade coming from me. 

The drunken noodle shown above is far more seafood than noodle (probably a whole pound and a half!). What makes this place even more special (the cherry on top!) is the grandma that makes it I her semi-outdoor kitchen.

For $15 you would be hard pressed to find a better deal on seafood anywhere in  the world, much less in a dish like this one. 

While we like to think of ourselves as foodies or at least adventurous when it comes to food, we are pretty much lonely planet drones. We go where the book says there is good local food. The thing is - they are almost always right! Nonetheless, we always try to get other recommendations outside the LP for stellar local restaurants. While I don't have photos of it, Seven Spoons hit the mark for us. A top 5 Bangkok restaurant on trip advisor, this Mediterranean fusion place is top notch, serving great food and cocktails at only 1/3-2/3 of western prices. We would recommend that place to anyone visiting Thailand. 

And here is the barn burner - Perhaps in my top 3 restaurants in the world is Somtam Coventry. A northeastern Thai cuisine "restaurant," this glorified roadside kitchen churns out some of the tastiest, cheapest, purest Thai food possible. From amazing roasted chicken, to delicious sticky rice, to whole fish grilled and salted (we all know I'm a sucker for a whole fish), to their larb and papaya salads, this place is an absolute home run. Despite being a lonely planet rec, this place is not yet destroyed by westerners, as it's clientele is still mostly Thai. Although, they do smirk when we walk in, recognizing us from our countless dines there. In all the dishes we have eaten here, I could not point out a flaw for you besides slightly dry chicken ONCE. 

Most dishes I mentioned are on this table. Note the "kitchen" in the background/on the street, and the classy plastic stools. I'm in love. I hope this place stays just busy enough to stay open and make the owner comfortable, but never too busy that it renovated itself or goes big. I know. I'm selfish. 

Bangkok Glam - The Roofbar

Bangkok is a city with two faces - one face is a working class people who are busy everyday turning Thai hospitality and ambition into ends meat. The other face is one of ex-patriots, royalty, western visitors, and Thai middle and upper class alike, taking advantage of world class service and offerings available at the city's finest establishments. This is why we love Thailand. We can have a meal on the street for two of us for $15, followed by $20 drinks at a fabulous rooftop bar without changing clothes. 

Bangkok's rooftop bars are plentiful and inspiring. One of the most famous ones is sirocco rooftop bar, the filming location for the hangover II. While we have been to that bar several times, our favorite is Moon Bar, just down the street from sirocco in the banyan tree hotel. The bar (and restaurant) are on the 63rd floor (on top of the building quite literally) and are complete with 360 degree views of the city. This is important in Bangkok, as the city has no center, rather, its skyline is sprawled across many square miles. Naturally, a rooftop bar is a must for me in Bangkok - As indicated directly in the description of this blog, I love to scale tall things for unique pictures of skylines. 

Northwest view 

Northeast

Pano

Not sure but I think northeast again. 

At this place we do what most people do - order and nurse one $20 drink for as long as we want to linger amongst the clouds. We don't leave without copious photos of the skyline or ourselves (we are in Asia, after all). 

These were taken by our campy, outlandish Thai waiter. 

Sawadee ka! 

Cabaret Show Kaaa!

The most striking cultural difference upon landing in Thailand is their language. One of my favorite parts of Thailand is Thai and how it is such a manifestation of their culture. Thai sounds happy and upbeat by nature, just like Thai people. My favorite part of Thai is how the women can end just about any sentence with the term ka, which symbolizes (upon investigation) politeness. Thai for thank you is kop un kap for males and kop un ka for women, so ka kinda makes sense as an abbreviated form of thanks. Women add it to everything: "Thai tea ka," "goodbye ka," etc., even when they are advertising one of their recent national pastimes... Cabaret show ka!! Simpky put - come see the show, please!

Cabaret shows, or lady boy shows as they are known to us, are elaborate cabarets where lady boys and girls alike dress up extravagantly, dance, and lip synch to top 40 and other catchy songs. The result is a fantastic mess. 

My favorite numbers are the cell block tango from Chicago, and a river deep mountain high cover by Celine Dion. I took the liberty of recording a bit of that for your listening and viewing enjoyment. 

http://youtu.be/tSCLQUqiCdQ

Even though this show is $40, it is worth every penny. The only part I don't like is at the end when you exit the theater through a gauntlet of desperate lady boys wanting to take pictures with you in exchange for 100-500 baht ($3-$16). It is sad for me because they usually perform in the show as a way to make extra money towards their surgeries. It is also just downright uncomfortable. 

Cabaret shows are definitely a part of Bangkok lore and culture. They are a must for anyone with the spare hour and a half in the evening. 

Jim Thompson

The Jim Thompson house is the number one thing to do in Bangkok according to the lonely planet. It seemed suspect to is but we decided to check it out and were pleasantly surprised. 

Jim Thompson was an ex-military/special forces officer from World War II that moved to Bangkok in his retirement. An architect by tradecraft, he fell in love with the city, built his own house, and reintroduced Thai silk to the rest of the world. He sprung to fame when he produced all the silk for The King and I. 

His house is awesome. He was an architect and designed it himself. The house is a series of inside out Thai houses connected by corridors. We weren't allowed to take pictures inside the house, but were allowed to phonograph the grounds. Part of what makes this house so special is Jim's collection of Southeast Asia art. His house is a mausoleum for various Buddhas and other gods from around the region. 

Part of the allure of the house is that Jim Thompson one day vanished into thin air while vacationing in Malaysia. While this is unfortunate, and there is much speculation around the circumstances, he left behind a real gem. 

Facade of the house. 

The grounds. 

Canal on one side of the house. Jim lived on the canal across from the Muslim section of Bangkok. The people on the other side made the silk for him to export. 

The house was full of light, gardens, and beautiful flowers. 

A traditional Thai silk maker also sits on the grounds collecting silk. It might be gimmicky but it certainly shows how difficult and artful Thai silk making is!

The silkworm balls cooking in a pot:

Definitely a must for anyone in Bangkok. Jim Thompson silk is still available at various Jim Thompson stores in Thailand and beyond. 

Cambodia Temple and Goodbye

We had been to the temples of Angkor Wat last year and had little intention of going again when we booked this trip. But, it seemed silly, even sacreligious, to go to Cambodia and not see the temples, so we obliged. We picked something we has never seen before or done before - sunset at  new (to us) temple.  Despite the crowds, it was beautiful. Here is a sample.

It's hard to get pictures without people near the temples, but we did our best. 

This is one of my favorites. 

We faught hard against the masses to get a perch all to ourselves, but eventually we won against the onslaught of Chinese droves and Korean camera lenses. Jordan almost got into a fight with a Chinese grandma, but he behaved and resolved it peacefully. 

The temples really are a sight to be had. Even after having seen them multiple times. I am always finding new and fun pretty views and angles. 

On the way home we passed by pub street, which is the street that tourists bs Cambodians alike go for relaxation and libations. The street seems touristy but really isn't, considering siem reap is a purely recent construct erected solely as a launching point for temple adventures. There are few places to go out in the evening so even the Cambodians come out here too on occasion. 

After the temple trek we had little time left. The next morning we were off to Thailand, our other favorite city. 

Selfie by the river en route to the airport REP - one of my favorite small airports. 

This video shows our tuk tuk ride through downtown siem reap. 

http://youtu.be/BxxzO6pvX1Y

Departures hall. 

Despite a weight limit of 20 kilos, we charmed the counter lady into letting us cram our 7 packs of coffee and numerous tees into the already bulging suitcase. 

Jordan and I were very upset to leave, the allure of siem reap and Cambodia has not worn off for us. 

We discussed our plans to return over a surprisingly good Cambodian Cabernet, beer, and a latte (it was 11 am). Don't be surprised if you hear us chatter about our newfangled crazy plans to open our own bed and breakfast in Cambodia in the future!