Von & Jordan’s Guide to Hong Kong

I have been asked on occasion for my recommendations for what to do in Hong Kong. It made me realize that our time spent there is either documented in a hodge podge of blog entries or not documented at all. This is my attempt at consolidating and producing something useful. Ever the changing city, this is a living document that will be updated as Hong Kong updates itself.  

Eating

Eating is likely our favorite activity. We have uncovered a number of great places to eat in Hong Kong, ranging from cheap dim sum, to outdoor fish for $70 HKD, to 2 Michelin Star restaurants. Many of these have been pilfered from Lonely Planet and online blogs that claim the “best of XXX dish.” If these don’t tickle your fancy, use Open Rice; it’s the Yelp of Hong Kong and the one true authority for food in HK. Here is our Guide.

Let’s start with dim sum:

In the USA dim sum means little Chinese Aunties pushing carts. In HK this is considered old-school and inferior to freshly made-to-order dim sum. Most places you will order on a piece of paper and they will prepare it for you. Some, however, still do the carts for maximum kitsch and fun. I’ll indicate those with CA (Chinese Aunties) and those that are made to order with MTO

Tim Ho Wan (MTO) – Touted as the most affordable Michelin star restaurant on the planet, this one gives you the best bang for your buck and mouth. We always say we didn’t know what dim sum actually tasted like until we ate at Tim Ho Wan. Get the egg cake and the pork dumplings. There are a number of locations for Tim Ho Wan now, but the best one – and the one with the star – is still Mong Kok:  9 Fuk Wing St, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong.

Maxim’s Palace (MTO & CA) – Fantastic dim sum with a view of the harbor. Reasonably priced and very tasty, this is a must for dim sum lovers. It’s an extension of the storied local HK brand “Maxim’s.” Locals and tourists love this place. Get there early (11 when it opens) for the shortest wait. Even when it’s mobbed, though, the wait isn’t terrible. Here they have a combination of carts and made to order to appease both groups that come. 7^th Floor, 183 Queen’s Road East, 5 Edinburgh Pl, Hong Kong

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Cuisine Royale (MTO) – This is a great middle of the road dim sum with good prices and decent food. In Wan Chai, it’s also convenient. Not much else to say here. It gets busy but it’s never bad. Shop 701, 7/F, Hopewell Centre

Lin Heung Tea House (CA) – If you are dying for a dim sum Cantonese experience straight out of 1950 then this is your place. You must fight aggressive locals to find seats, and god help you if you’re far from the kitchen entry. This is the quintessential old dim sum experience where aunties push the carts and it’s every man for themselves. It’s the literal hunger games in there fighting the swarms to come away from a cart with anything good. By the time the swarm dissipates, the cart is stripped down like a carcass on the Serengeti. This place is fun and exhausting. I can’t make any dish recommendations because you should literally just grab whatever you can from the carts as they come out of the kitchen.

Cantonese (you know it's Cantonese when they show you your food):

Yung Kee – The Hong Kong staple. Yung Kee’s roast goose is fabled and does not disappoint. Get a goose, a fish, some noodles and vegetables and you’ve got a near perfect meal. Make reservations. Hong Kong, Yung Kee Building, 32-40 Wellington St, Central, Hong Kong

Kam Shan Seafood – This place is as local as it gets in HK. In a mall, big round tables, seafood on display, and Cantonese-only waiters. They can get by on some mandarin or point/grunt efforts, but don’t get complicated. Get the fish, any noodle dish, and the razor clams are delicious. This place is a bit hard to find, but trust the directions and head up to the 7^th floor: 7/F, Chuang's London Plaza, 129 Nathan Road, Jordan, Chuang's London Plaza, Hong Kong

Fook Lam Moon – This place a few stars I believe, and it is worth it. This is one of the fancier places you can eat thanks to legend, mainly. You’ll see Bentleys and RRs in front dropping off the HK elite. The fish maw soup is delicious, and if you are going to try bird’s nest or abalone, this is the most haute place to do it. Also, the yi fu noodles are delicious. Make reservations. Shop 3, G/F, 35-45 Johnston Rd, Hong Kong

Kam’s Roast Goose – This is the restaurant of the son of Yung Kee. He serves the same roast goose as Yung Kee for a fraction of the price. We have never eaten here because they were always out of goose when we get there, typically around 730. Go before that otherwise you will never get a goose. In fact, when we went they said they were out of not just goose, but “everything.” I guess the Michelin accolades keep the place busy. Po Wah Commercial Centre, 226 Hennessy Rd, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

Joy Hing – Hong Kong is famous for its chiar siu, or roast pork. It’s delicious, and few places do it better for cheap than Joy Hing. It’s a tiny hole in the wall where you will sit on a tiny stool next to 5 people at a table meant for 2. It’s worth it and get the chiar siu with rice and bak choi on the side. 

The Chairman – Go to this place to eat the crab. It’s a fancy place and worth of the Michelin star it has, but really you want to eat the crab. Its the star of the show. Make reservations. They take rezzies via WhatsApp now, apparently. 18 Kau U Fong, Central, HK

Cha Chan Teng:

My favorite part about Hong Kong is how it is distinctly Chinese, yet absorbed some western approaches to life. One of the weirdest and most unique is the rise of the cha chan teng (pronounced chah tsahn ting). These are local “diners” that blend the food habits of 1950s British and Chinese homestyle cooking. The result is macaroni in chicken broth and slicedham, cheesy ramen noodles with sliced pork neck, pork chops with spaghetti in a sweet tomato sauce, some of the best club sandwiches you’ll ever eat. These are the types of places that don’t really speak English but will have some English on the menus. They never have websites, sometimes don’t even have names, and are always hard to find. They are not for those that are bashful at ordering, grunting, and pointing; and is definitely not for those uncomfortable sitting next to strangers, because that is guaranteed. These are a little slice of a Hong Kong that I hope is preserved for eternity. 

Capital Cafe - The best of the best when it comes to macaroni in broth with ham. Also eat their truffle scrambled eggs. Just do it. Their tea is awesome too. I also love their toast. So yeah, everything's good. It's a local legend and for good reason. If you visit just one CCT, let this be it. Kwong Sang Hong Building Block B-d, 6 Heard St, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

 

Star Café (at least I think that’s what it is) – This place has some of the best macaroni in broth with ham that you’ll ever have. They also have fantastic Hong Kong style tea. You have to order in “sets,” so pick set A B or C. I think the macaroni are Set A. It will come with toast and coffee or tea, and the only time you’ll have to grunt is to pick which you want. 18 Kwong Ming St.

This place, I think –

It’s on one of the small Chiu Lung street between Des Voeux Road and Queen’s Road Central. It’s downstairs, hard to find, and delicious. Get the pork chop with spaghetti. OR, get the best club sandwich ever. This place doesn’t do English but has a couple of English menus. It’s always full of Cantonese people and I am sure some of them would help you order if you ask. Be prepared to sit with others.  I am truly unsure of where this place is exactly. Just look for a staircase going downstairs on the north side of Chiu Lung street. 

Sichuan Food:

Sichuan for some reason frequently comes in the form of private kitchens instead of restaurants. At least this goes for our favorites.

渝川菜館 (English translation unknown) – This place is homestyle Sichuan food. Their menus are all sets and you have to pick from the mains you want. It was $350 HKD per person last time we went, making not cheap but not bad for 3-4 dishes per person. I recommend the fish in chili oil, which is my barometer for all Sichuan foods. 1^st floor (not ground) 7 Amoy Street, Hong Kong.

Mum Chau’s Sichuan Kitchen – This place is adorable. Inside is covered with drawings done by the owners’ kids. Whether or not they actually live in the restaurant is yet to be determined, but regardless it certainly feels that way. All the dishes are delicious here and I belive a meal will cost approximately $300 HKD per person. Mum Chau's Sichuan Kitchen, 5/F, Winner Building, 37 D'Aguilar Street, Central, Hong Kong

Late Night Food:

There is only one name in the game: Ebenezer’s. This wouldn’t even be a category if it weren’t for this kebab place. Get the chicken tikka kebab for a blissful late night experience. If you want to fight the crowds of Lan Kwai Fong there is one down the alley, but if you don’t, I recommend this one: G/F, 24 Hollywood, Central, Hong Kong

Foreign:

In a place like Hong Kong you will inevitably have foreign (and local) chefs trying their hand at a restaurant of other cultures. HK is certainly not known for this, but there are some gems out there.

Agave Tequila y Comida – This place has 100s of tequilas to sample and some surprisingly authentic and tasty Mexican food. We ate here once but really liked it. 93 Lockhart Rd, Hong Kong

Pizza Hut – I know this is weird, but just go. You’ll see. It’s fancy.

Views

Hong Kong is now the most expensive place in the world when it comes to real estate. The game is entirely centered on carving out personal slices of the magnificent city view that the city is known for. We have labored to find some of the better ones, but they aren’t much different from what you will find in a guide book. Note these are the locations purely for viewing, and exclude other activities that might come with views, like Ozone Bar. 

SEE ALL MY FAVORITE VIEWS HERE (BLOG)

Victoria Peak – This is the obvious winner when it comes to aerial views of Hong Kong. Getting there can cost you $100-$150 HKD if the taxi negotiates, and it probably $75 if you get a metered fare. You can also take a bus, which is super fun and kinda like a roller coaster thanks to the winding and seemingly impossible roads these double deckers navigate. It’s not for those wanting to be comfortable. Nor is the cable car, which leaves from 33 Garden Rd, Hong Kong and almost always has an unbearably long line. Everyone should do it once, but that’s all you need. The peak viewing gallery is the traditional place to get the best views: 128 Peak Rd, The Peak, Hong Kong

Victoria Peak Trails – Around the peak and originating from the peak viewing gallery there are several paths that provide great views north and south of the island. The paths are not demanding and are more strolls than hikes.

Tsim Sha Tsui – Across the harbor from Hong Kong Island is Kowloon. The southernmost edge of this peninsula is the Tsim Sha Tsui area, which is pretty much a grand viewing area for the island. There is a big public area there with viewing galleries and a “walk of stars” that juts into the harbor and boasts a bronze statue of Jackie Chan. The walk isn’t amazing but the views are great. From Tsim Sha Tsui I would recommend hopping a Star Ferry for $2 HKD for extra view and a fun quick boat ride.

Bowen Road Trail - This is discussed elsewhere in this guide, but its views are worth repeating:

Culture and Things to Do

Light Show Boat – Every night at 8:00 or so (time changes throughout year) many of the skyscrapers in Hong Kong put on a coordinated light show set to music. You can either watch this light show from the Tsim Sha Tsui viewing deck where they broadcast the light show music and voice in various languages. The language changes every day, so be sure to check which language is playing before you go. If it’s not your day, you can always tune in on the radio at 107.9. (for the schedule go here: http://www.discoverhongkong.com/seasia/see-do/highlight-attractions/harbour-view/a-symphony-of-lights.jsp)

MORE ON LIGHT SHOWS FROM A BOAT (BLOG)

Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car – One of my favorite activities in Hong Kong is to take the 4 mile cable car on the island of Lantau, which is also where the airport is. The cable car goes up to the top of the mountain where there is a giant bronze Buddha sitting on a lotus leaf. The Buddha is impressive, but I like to go for the views from the ferry. If you have the stomach for it, you can take a glass bottomed cable car. I do not have the required stomach. Take the Tung Chung line to the end and walk to the cable car terminal at 11 Tat Tung Road, Tung Chung, Lantau, Hong Kong.

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Star Ferry – It’s the most magical $2HKD you will ever spend. The Star Ferry shuttles people between the Tsim Sha Tsui area and Central on the island (and other points like Wan Chai), providing one of a kind views along the way. The Star Ferries have not changed since the early 1900s and still boast an all-wood frame with huge windows. You’ll want to situate yourself near one of the windows to maximize viewing. I have found little difference between the upper and lower decks as far as views go.

Outlying Islands – Hong Kong is actually made up of a bunch of little islands. Many of these islands still have local populations. The two that are most visited are Lamma and Cheung Chau. I find Lamma way more magical, with beaches, trails, great views, and minimal crowds. Cheung Chau is heavily overrun but does have some gems, like the seafood restaurants along the port. Go to Lamma for relaxing and Cheung Chau for crap markets and restaurants.  Ferries leave for both islands at regular times from the pier at Central, just next to the Star Ferry dock.

Drinking

Ozone – Ozone should be in a category of its own called Views/Drinking (and not the other way around). At the top of Hong Kong’s tallest building, the International Commerce Center, Ozone is a bar open to the sky. Pick a day it’s not raining and head to this bar for a $20USD beer with $20,000,000 USD views. It will be the most expensive beer you’ve ever had but also the most worthwhile. The views are beyond description.

Zoo Bar – One of the only gay bars left on the island, Zoo is a fun place to meet new people and have a couple unique drinks. Expensive, but worth it. G/F, 33 Jervois St, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Ping Pong 129 Gintoneria – This is a really cool hidden bar in the basement of a building. The front door is red but that’s the only indication it exists. Their specialty is gin but they have a range of fun stuff. The inside actually has space and is very hip. The walls are red, the servers are knowledgeable, the drinks are fancy, and the people are hip. At least, it’s hip enough for me. Nam Cheong Lau, 135 Second St, Hong Kong

Lan Kwai Fong – If you want to see westerners gone wild, this is your best bet. It’s good for a bit of fun after a long week. Expect high prices, wester bars, and expats misbehaving. I don’t recommend a particular bar… you’ll find one and there are plenty. Go around here and it will be self evident: 1 Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong.

Walking/Hiking        

Most of Hong Kong is uninhabitable mountains protected by national parks. While this might piss off some real estate developers, it is great for hikers. I have only done a few of these walks/hikes, but they have all been rewarding.

Bowen Road – There is a path called Wan Chai Gap Road (not a road at all, but steps) that leads to a pathway carved into the hill beneath Victoria Peak. This road was my favorite jogging path when we lived in Wan Chai. It provides spectacular views of the city without being far away, creating a feeling that you are among the buildings. Once you reach Bowen from Wan Chai Gap Rd, take a right for the best views. I have never gone too far to the left but the trail goes on for quite some time. If you’re feeling adventurous, continue up WCG Rd to Dutch Path. This path is more forested and is not a road like Bowen is. At some point the trail is cut off and you either have to risk falling down the hill or turn back. I once risked it and I am pretty sure I narrowly escaped injury. The walk up to Bowen Road is treacherous but worth it. If you aren’t up for the 45 degree grade, you can take a taxi to the western end of it. Here is a map instead of my 1000 words.

This was the scene when I was lost. Exciting but a little scary. A bit out of Indiana Jones.

Dragon’s Back – Probably the most incredible hike to do is dragon’s back. The path follows the crest of a number of hills toward the south of the island starting near Shek O beach. Have a taxi take you to here: https://goo.gl/maps/E8m5tdVWqWT2. From there you walk up the hill. Follow the path all the way to the end – you won’t be disappointed. The views are incredible and are still among the special few images I consider my “happy places.”

Mid Level Escalators - It's weird to put an escalator in a guide, but really it's quite the site. Hong Kong is so hilly that this series of escalators was installed so people could be transported up the steep, densly populated hillside, as opposed to walking it. It sounds high petty but it is really a lifesaver when heading to the mid levels (where many expats live and bars/restaurants abound). I mean, who wants to walk up THIS?!

The escalators start at One International Finance Center near Des Voeux Road between Central and Sheung Wan. You can get to it from the Hong Kong or Central stations, but it's a confusing trip. 

Other

Tailor – We have a favorite cheap tailor in Hong Kong that will even take mail orders. Jantzen tailor won’t make the best clothes, but they make good ones for cheap. We have gotten suits there and they have been OK, but really the deal is in tailor made shirts. Running about $40 USD per shirt, you won’t beat it unless you venture deep into Shenzhen. We don’t make a stop in HK without hitting them up for new stuff. They even remember our name and ask our local friends how we are on occasion. Jantzen takes a ton of orders and I once even saw a fellow businessman in New York Penn Station with a suit bag bearing the Jantzen name. They are pretty hard to find, but worth it: 5/F, On Lok Yuen Building, 25-27A Des Voeux Rd Central, Central, Hong Kong

Ocean Park – One of the most visited sites in the world (or so they proclaim) is Ocean Park amusement park. The place boasts a massive cable car, underground funicular, a few really good roller coasters, a huge aquarium, and some dolphin and animal shows. It’s a fun time with kids or adults and provides some great views from the cable car and top of the roller coaster.

MORE ON OCEAN PARK (BLOG)

Hong Kong Disney – It’s Disney. But Asian. And crowded. Worth a trip, still, if only for the Grizzly Gulch roller coaster and evening parade. We went for xmas and it was magical. 

Macau – I have written about Macau before. (http://hkvj.blogspot.sg/2013/06/macau-boat.html, http://hkvj.blogspot.sg/2013/06/day-in-macau.html, http://hkvj.blogspot.sg/2013/06/macau-ii.html). It’s a 45 minute ferry away and a fun cultural exploration experience. Also you can play baccarat. And see cool sites like this: