The People
It's in the name - Thailand. It means free people. They were never conquered (except by themselves) by foreign powers, never forced to do something they didn't want to, and resisted colonialism like a pro, despite GB's best efforts. Mind you, they were flanked by colonial powers - France to the east and north, and Britain to the west and south.
The people are happy and fed, for the most part. Keeping your people full is one of the foundational components of peace and prosperity - just look at how long China has kept up their charade - They do it all by feeding their people. Thailand is much the same, except the feeling I get is that the people feed themselves.
They are the happiest, friendliest, and genuinely warmest people on earth. It is ingrained in them. Even the little kids are polite and well behaved. Not sure what is going on here but it's pretty consistent across the board! Example - we gave up our seat on the BTS skytrain to a mother holding probably a 4 year old child. He politely thanked us in Thai and did the clasped hands bow. It was adorable.
Thai Bow
Bangkok
Never a more alive and vibrant city has existed! The thing with Bangkok is that even though it's full of tourists, it doesn't feel that way. Thais are just as busy scurrying about, shopping, eating, and enjoying all of the city's offerings. Again, at least that's how it feels to us.
Bangkok feels a little dirty, but oddly it is not nearly as dirty feeling as NYC. It's a different kind of dirt. Tropical and a little third world, so it's a "clean" feeling, albeit wet dirt. The dirt actually adds character - it's the perfect mix of third world Asia and western comforts. The condo buildings that dot the city's skyline are a testament to Bangkok's modernization, but also somehow add to the feeling of the city instead of ruin it.
Occasionally you find a building that didn't quite work out and remains unfinished, reminding you that it is most certainly not the west. Still, this, too, adds character.
And, of course, there is the occasional dark alley that reminds you of Bangkok's seedier pastimes. I wouldn't trade these corridors for anything!
Bangkok also has a bunch of cultural experiences that we may think are odd, but are totally cool nonetheless. For example, the museum of counterfeit, the "corrections museum," which is an homage to torture techniques of the past (yeah this one is weird), a monastery where they let you pet tigers (we protest that one), and a snake research institute where they document the various types of snakes in Thailand, research their antivenoms, and educate the public about their characteristics. My favorite were the king cobras!
The copperhead was really neat, too. It's a quick little guy!
The Chao Phraya River in Bangkok is a special waterway. Bustling with tourists, barges, longtail boats, and other miscellaneous boats, it feels thoroughly alive. Again, the water is dirty, but it's easy to get past that. The river is beautiful and very clearly once formed the backbone of the economy. The river also feeds Bangkok's many canals, making the city largely accessible by boat and land. The canals are being filled in slowly so this aspect is sadly going away, but it is still an interesting aspect of the city.
Bangkok's Wats or temples put our western churches to shame. They are glistening, well kept, and feel like holy places and not relics. I will admit that once you have seen one of the big ones, the rest are pretty repetitive. But they are still impressive, especially since they make up such a big component of the skyline! My favorite temple, Wat Pho, feels like a little city of steeple like things, all centered around the largest reclining buddah I have ever seen.
Where else can you get tuktuk rides, motorcycle taxis, and $2 cab rides to anywhere you want to go? We have only braved the motorcycle taxi once here, but they are very exciting. Tuktuks are also a hoot. While largely for tourists, these things are fun no matter how you slice it. I am not exactly sure how real taxi drivers make money. With fares capping out at $2-3 in the city itself, it's a wonder there are so many taxi drivers. I think they generally get by by taking advantage of tourists. (we don't stand for that, obviously).
Chatachak
I have posted about this mega-market before, but it deserves another shout out. The most comprehensive, interesting, sprawling, inexpensive market I have ever seen, you can get lost in it for hours. It is pure chaos while simultaneously not stress inducing. You can get whatever you want here from furniture to giant buddahs to puppies. It's a shopping paradise with something for everyone.
The corridors like this are seemingly endless.
There is good food, too! Lots of it.
This is hands down the best tom yum soup that have ever met my lips.
Food stalls like this are endless and all equally fantastic. At least, we haven't encountered a bad one!
And, of course, there is beer with straws. Obviously.
Nighttime
We don't have much experience with other cities, but Bangkok oddly has the feeling of a late night city that ends pretty early. Bars have to close at 1 AM during the week unless they have a late night license. On the weekend it's a bit later, but it's not ubiquitously an all night party. That aside, Thais are known for having fun and for not holding back in how they do it. The bars are bustling and the clubs are packed. Drink prices have krept up over the years, but 150 Bhat (~$5 USD) ain't too bad!
Bangkok is home to one of my favorite clubs in the world - DJ Station. It only took one visit to this four-story drinking and dancing establishment for me to fall in love with it. The drinks are cheap, the people are friendly, and the crowd is mixed. This is where Thais and foreigners alike go to unwind and have a good time. It's so rare that such a mix happens in such a touristy place. It's exhilarating. The place is tucked away in a little street that you actually need to pass through a metal detector to enter. I appreciate this measure because you never know when some malintented individual wants to wreak havoc.
This is the scene outside:
DJ Station is just great. Here is a sample:
While this is the popular area to go out for the kids, Jordan and I have an affinity for two other streets that, we think, exhibit the Thai friendliness to the Nth degree.
Soi 4.
Let's discuss this image and why I love it. First, there's the pink elephant (hello kitty) in the room. Who doesn't want a giant stuffed animal sold to them while they're out drinking? Jordan and I have procured many a toy from these lovely ladies selling things, most notably our light-saber style green laser that operates on a frequency I am sure is banned in all western countries. Second, this street is actually a dead end. The best part about it is sitting in the chairs facing the corridor, watching uncomfortable WP walk quickly to the end then turn around and scurry out - tails between their legs. It's great people watching. Third, all the bartender boys are very eager to be friends with you. While this is a sales tactic, they are just good at it and you can tell they have an outgoing nature. Fourth, this whole street is full of gay bars. It is refreshing to have so many in one place.
Drinking in the sky is a favorite pastime of tourists here. We are culprits of this as well - the views and fabulousity are addicting! Bangkok's skyline is endless and is even more spectacular from 80 stories in the air. Drinks are expensive, but you have to let that go when drinking elevated al fresco.
Here is my terrible attempt at a panorama.
The best part of nighttime activities is actually when they end. The street food at night is just amazing. Pad thai never tastes as good as it does at 3 AM from a grungy street cart, consumed on low folding tables, while sitting on flimsy plastic stools. Descriptions do not do it justice - you will have to take our word for it.
Food (obviously)
Food is the grand poobah when justifying Thailand as the greatest country on earth. My happiest food moments are from the streets and restaurants of Thailand. The street food here is just on another level - from the delicious flavors to the adorable little thai women serving it, there is just nothing better. Chicken satay, whole grilled fish, pad thai, scallion omelette with sweet sauce (breakfast of champions), grilled plantains in coconut syrup, noodle soup, and, of course, Thai iced coffee and iced tea - the stuff dreams are made of. I probably drink three to four iced coffees per day while in Thailand. The stuff is just too good to pass up. And it comes with a cute plastic handle!
I could go on and on about the food here, but I will focus on two particular experiences apart from the street food. The first is an unsuspecting establishment in the center of the city, made known only by the Lonely Planet and probably kept alive by the tourists that are able to find the place. The Pad Kee Mao (drunken noodles) here is one of the more delicious dishes you will ever eat if you like seafood and noodles (I mean, how could you not?!). The seafood is in HUGH chunks and the noodles are always perfectly cooked. It comes in on the high end of price at $11.50 per plate, but it is worth it.
Look at that prawn! All the big white chunks are crab meat. I would like to note one additional aspect of this meal that makes it amazing - the Thai Coke. I have said this for years and it is reaffirmed every time I leave the US - westerners have no idea what Coke tastes like. Coke from a bottle in a third world country is just light years better than anything you get in a can or in the US (unless it's imported from Mexico, which HAPPENS!).
Here is the interior of the "restaurant." It is not a real restaurant by western standards. The little Thai grandma chef (same one as when we were here two years ago) cooks outside on a giant open flamed wok to the right in the picture. Humble indeed!
The second place I will tell you about is a small joint on Convent Road near Silom (night market and popular tourist area). Personally, this is my favorite food establishment on earth. I know that's saying a lot, but it just is. Our favorite things to order here are: salted grilled whole fish, papaya or mango salad with crab/pork/chicken, ground pork salad called laab, sticky rice, and roasted chicken like you have never tasted. Maybe it's the kitchy nature of the restaurant or the freshness of the food, or the $10-$20 bill that comes at the end of this extravagant meal, I am not sure. All I know is it is the single biggest anticipation for me every time I go to Thailand.
Please see below: whole fish, two beers, papaya salad, sticky rice, and pork laab (laab moo). This, my friends, is happiness.
Here is the interior of the "restaurant." Again, plastic stools, cheap silverware, exposed kitchen (the kitchen is actually on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant), and a mixture of foreigners and Thai people. This place just rocks.
Thailand literally has many flavors. That's what makes it great. From grilled meats and street food to unique desserts like mango sticky rice and these things below. These are called Thai jewels, which those of you coming to our wedding in November will likely get to taste. The name of this dessert is appropriate to end on - Thailand itself is a jewel and hopefully never changes for the worse.
If I didn't convince you it's because you haven't been to this magical place. You should go, and tell us when you're going so we can join you.
Nice! Thanks for taking the time, Von!
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