21 August 2013

Paradise Shlep

We are in Koh Tao now, a secluded beach in Thailand. And when i say secluded, I mean it. First a Flight to koh samui, which is really out of the way, then a shuttle to the ferry pier, then a 2 hour ferry to the island. 

The airport was the cutest thing ever. Basically a thatched hut. We were greeted on the runway (no jet bridges here, obviously) by these adorable shuttles. Note our colorful Bangkok Airways plane in the background. My new favorite airline, btw. Free lounge access on ALL flights - yes, please! 

Ferry pier:


Here is where we were on the ferry:


For perspective:



You have to be really committed to get to this island, which keeps the tourists under control for the most part. But it is worth the wait. Our beach:


What we just ate at our cabana:


View from our restaurant at dinner last night:


Basically, this is the coolest place ever and we want to quit our jobs, cash out our 401ks and open a bar on the beach. Sigh. More on Koh Tao later. Also we will post on Myanmar and Chiang Mai. 





IWP

Per my father's request, photographic evidence that Thailand = bandages and crutches for white people.


It also means backpacks EVERYWHERE.  It would be annoying if I hadn't done the exact same thing in my youth. However, these guys are pretty old to be doing it if you ask me. 



14 August 2013

Surprising Cambodia

Going into it we knew Cambodia would resemble the 3rd world. What we didn't know was just how 3rd world it actually is (with some glaring exceptions like the airport and tourist hotels). Even more surprising, though, was how gracious, kind, and helpful the people are! Angkor wat aside, the beauty of which needs no explanation, the best part of Cambodia was the exploration of the countryside and interacting with the warm people.

The temples of Angkor wat are probably some of the most impressive man-made sights I have ever seen. We spent two full days in siem reap to explore the temples. The first day we did a traditional tuk tuk ride to the main temple complexes. The temples are, unfortunately, best seen at sunrise, which translated to a 415 wake up call. But it was worth it. See below. The early time also helped us beat most of the tourists. The crowds were oppressive - and it was low season. 


What makes the temples impressive is their size. The complex is sprawling and contains many large temple ruins. They were also a built 1000 years ago, making them even more of a feat. 

From a distance 

Inside the temple. 

Ruins inside.

The corridors all had elaborate paintings and carvings like this one. The temple was originally Hindu, but was late reclaimed for the Buddhists. The paintings and carvings all tell Hindu tales. 

Many of the temples were in "mountain style" which basically translated to piles of stone that resemble mountains. In this temple they adorned each mount with four faces. For Good luck I think?

The second day we were more adventurous. We did mountain biking into the countryside to see "hidden temples" (this meant they did not require tickets and were devoid of tourists) and the Cambodian countryside. Our tour guide, Terrance, accompanied us on both days and we quickly befriended him and became attached. He was very knowledgable and his English was good enough that we didn't have to strain to understand. He knew where all the good hidden temples were and knew a lot about them. He also knew a significant amount about Hinduism and Buddhism. We loved Terrance and hope to see him again some day (we think his name was Terrance, at least). 

Evidence of Jordan on a bike:

Fun rural biking. 


One of the coolest temples of them all is the overgrown Ta Prohm. The best part about this temple is the huge group of jungle trees that ha consumed the structures. The movie "tomb raider" with Angelina Jolie was filmed here. This is also where she decided to adopt the entire third world. We see why, too - the kids are adorable. 

The famous shot:
More

At this point it was raining and we decided to brave it with no shoes - Cambodia style. 

After the hidden temples we went into the countryside. The countryside reminded me of Africa so much it hurt, and planted the idea of Africa as the next big trip. 

Motorbike "gas station" in rural Cambodia. 

In our trek we stumbled on a family distilling vodka with rice. 

The countryside was full of rice farming, rice being Cambodia's biggest export. 

We ended the outing with a trip up the only mountain in the region. I say mountain but it's really an oversized hill. Regardless it was high enough that we could see for 10 miles. The views were pretty awe-inspiring. 


At the top of the hill there was, of course, a temple. It was a fun temple that we could easily climb around like monkeys. Jordan and Jody were the lea monkeys - I surprisingly didn't have the stomach.



After this it was back to the hotel for our own little sunset party on the roof. 



Siem reap obviously exists but for the thousands of (korean, japanese, chinese, and european) tourists. But the tourism in Cambodia is in my opinion is the best kind. The people are industrious and inventive in how they host foreign tourists. They learn all kinds of languages including Korean, Japanese, Chinese, all the European languages, and even Russian. They clearly appreciate the money and time the tourists spend get to and exploring the temples and siem reap. I think they are aware of just how difficult and inaccessible Cambodia is for the western world, and acknowledge it with great hospitality. The public lives off the tourism and it clearly makes their lives better. I'd certainly go back. Jordan and I already have dreams of coming back and volunteering for a year. 

In lieu of train photos (there are no trains), here are some airplane and airport pics. 


Cambodia Angkor Air - the country's flag carrier. 


We are en route to Myanmar now, so.... I'll let everyone know how that goes as soon as there is Internet. (We made it. It's interesting to say the least) 


09 August 2013

Best of Vietnam

Vietnam is just fantastic. From the cheap good food to the silly motorbike culture. It is just the right amount of excitement, crazy, and danger. While we weren't daring enough as some other white people and decided to forego renting motorcycles, we did have a satisfyingly good time. Here are some highlights. 

Swimming on (somewhat polluted) beautiful beaches only accessible by boat, like this. 

Sipping fancy drinks like this on luxurious tour boats. 

Visiting caves like this. 

Ha long bay is absolutely beautiful. The government restricts access to the bay to a limited few sites, but they are good ones. Next time I would love to take a boat with a special license that can go out to restricted parts of the bay. Next time! The places we went gave us sunset views like this, so I can't legitimately complain. 


Jordan really enjoyed the relaxation time - 

They let us do whatever we wanted on the boat, including jump off it and crawl to obviously dangerous places and play Titanic. 

After ha long we were off to hanoi for our last Vietnam evening. Jody was forlorn to leave the bay. 

Hanoi is the soul of the country from what I can tell. Full of life in the form of motorbikes, it is busy, alive, growing, and charming. The center of the town surrounds a lake with a temple in the middle. 


From its food, architecture, prevalent Catholicism, and coffee obsession the town does not forget its colonial French roots. 


A mor morbid reminder is the prison in hao la (known to Americans as the hanoi Hilton). The gate and front portion of the prison is now a museum (yes, the Vietnamese communists have propaganda chambers, too!) that tells of French and imperialist American oppression. What I did not know was that the French built the prison to jail political resisters during colonial times. When they were booted, it became a Vietnamese POW prison. The inside shows atrocities committed by both the French and Americans, and oddly does not mention it's dark days during the war. The place was eerie and you could actually go into some cells. 

Hanoi is a really fun city to walk through. The old town is full of architecturally significant cafes, restaurants and shops, and, of course, is a little overrun by Europeans. We didn't mind them too much but it did bother us at times. All in all, a lovely town and we had a great time, despite the typhoon that nearly drown us all. 


The Vietnamese didn't seem to mind, though. They just sped up an drove through. (Treating it just like a traffic signal really - there is no traffic control whatsoever!)


When I say this, I use the term "developing" liberally, but don't mean it negatively by any means - Vietnam is certainly a developing country. In some senses it is already developed. The people have a strong sense of identity and an obvious culture. While it is somewhat typical of other Southeast Asian cultures, they certainly embrace it - sidewalk restaurant eating, beer drinking, and relaxing. Oh, and coffee drinking. In other senses it is not developed. Labor is cheap and the people are generally usurped by foreign mega-corporations. While I have no idea how these companies treat their workers, their oppressive presence is felt through Canon, Honda, Foxconn, and other factories. And then there is the tourism. I always feel guilty in my travels; in someways I feel bad making a spectacle of the local culture, and in other ways I enjoy spending money that I am sure they appreciate. Tourism seems like it is by far the most accessible industry to the typical viet. In that sense I foresee the country becoming overrun by foreigners, eager to get cheap stuff and view the beautiful scenery. I just hope Vietnam can strike that elusive balance of tourism/industry/innovation economy and not get destroyed in the process. They have a treasure on their hands! 

The biggest hurdle I see to the country's development is their government. The communist party seems to rule with an iron fist, while not providing any benefits to their citizens. Healthcare is not free (10 million Dong to see the dr!), school costs money, and they restrict access to high paying government jobs only to those with friends in high places. Not to mention the government owns many of the most successful businesses in Vietnam. Here's to hoping! As I'm sure the French said as they were booted from their colony - c'est la vie! 

The people are so nice and strong I think they will make it through. We befriended all of our boat crew including our guide, and I can say they are truly lovely people. With that kind of hospitality, beautiful scenery, and interesting cities, I'll go back there any time. Until next time, Vietnam!

Sorry, no typical closing train photo. There was no transit to be found in hanoi! 

04 August 2013

Hello, Vietnam

We embarked on our trip today. Jody arrived at 430 this morning and we started the day. First was food then was Victoria peak then food again then off to Vietnam!


The flight to Vietnam was a quick two hours. Some more courtesy HKG shots for you. 





 Only in select countries can you be a millionaire so easily. Vietnam is one of these places.


After some fantastic local pho, we headed to the night market. Vietnam has quite the soul! And no traffic rules. 


This place only served pho. We pointed, grunted, and $6 later had dinner for three. 

Then off to the night market! Lots of typical crap. But also a million and a half motorcycles! This is the square by the markets. 


Ha long bay tomorrow! Jody was such a trooper - only a 45 minute nap on the plane.